April 2012
Not being one to turn down any ‘cultural’ event, when I was
offered the opportunity to attend the Dogwood Festival in Fayetteville, NC for
the weekend, I wasn’t going to say no. Although I was a little put off when
Fayetteville was referred to as Fayett-nam, and described as having close
parallels…
The Dogwood (being the state flower) festival is a
country/redneck festival held every year with hundreds of rednecks (I mean
people) flocking to the centre of Fayetteville for a booze fueled evening of
good ol’ country music. With one awkward looking Brit trying to blend in. Being
during exams only Lindsay and I went from UNC, staying at her parents place
just outside of the town, meaning that I cheekily had to rearrange an exam in
order to go (who said study abroad was all about studying?!) , leaving on the
Friday afternoon. Fayetteville being a couple of hours from UNC, it was a short
journey, and with the sun shining. windows down, and music pumping it was a
sweet drive there!
Upon arriving at Lindsay’s house, I was attacked by the dog
(attacked probably a strong word considering the tiny size of the thing!) and
promptly tried to be cool playing with it. Which ended up me crouching on the
floor growling at it. Yeah cool right…. Rescuing me from the awkward situation
of a dog looking at me as if I was crazy Lindsay handed me a beer and we headed
out to the porch to do what I love about Southern life. Chilling on the porch
watching the world go by. The house is set in a residential neighbourhood built
around a golf course, which to me is a strange concept. Looking out over the
road you could see people lining up their clubs and golf buggys running around.
Nice neighbourhood though and I guess pretty typical of American residential
areas, with a main drive off the highway opening up to the houses.
That evening (when Lindsay’s family arrived home from work
and school) we headed into Fayetteville centre for dinner and the festival.
Arriving at an Irish place in the centre of town (im guessing this by the name,
although confusingly a union flag was flying outside…), and dinner was the
usual American staple of burgers (and very nice too!) with Lindsay's
younger sister freaking out about whether she wanted pickles or not with hers.
Oh the difficult decisions of a teenager! From there we wandered around the
town centre, having a look at what was going on and stopping off at a little
wine shop to try some chocolate wine. Not my thing, chocolate wine, to say the
least! Fayetteville itself looked a nice little place, with very typical
Southern style downtown and main street. However, it is a massive military town
with Fort Bragg located right outside it, and as such there were plenty of
Marine types knocking around being marines. Idiots that is! One bumped into me
and started going on about how I should move out of the way as a marine was coming
through. Don’t think so mate, you look where you’re going thank you very much!
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Wandering to the festival site |
The main reason for going into Fayetteville was the Dogwood
Festival, which is a very Southern affair with the usual stands displaying “anything
fried” signs and offering the usual deep fried candy etc and all the usual American
beers on tap like Bud Light (which is awful if I may say so – like piss
flavoured water!). There was a stage
where the acts were playing, headlining that evening was Gretchen Wilson of
well known song “Redneck Woman” (yeah me neither). Her act was pretty good,
getting the crowd going, bringing up a soldier to the stage to thank for his
service and playing the National Anthem (like I said, all very Southern!) and I
did enjoy watching her. Even if I had no idea what the songs were! I guess she
would be considered country-rock, with a mix of electric and traditional blues
instruments in use by the band. I did however keep catching myself watching
this couple standing a short way from us, who typified the Southern stereotype –
he was dressing in ripped denim jacket with tattoos and huge belly and she was
an incredibly large women crammed into a tiny outfit. The guys arms didn’t get
anywhere near round her waist. And they were so ugly as well (sorry, I don’t usually
say things like that but they were. So bad!). But what kept me watching was how
they would look into each other’s eyes, lean over for a tongue swallow and have
to lean over so far they almost toppled into each other. Gross! (Ill stop being
mean now). The set came to an end with “Redneck Woman” which you can enjoy
listening too below, and fireworks. Which was all nice and dandy!
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Scenes from the festival |
Upon dropping the lill'an off back home, Lindsay persuaded me to
continue the night at Cadillac Ranch a short drive away. Now this didn’t sound
too bad, except it was a line dancing type place (if you don’t know Lindsay,
she loves country music, line dancing and America). My stomach instantly
plunged. Line dancing? Two stepping? I can’t even keep my own feet from doing
much more than step up and down whilst clubbing! Needless to say, being one to
never turn down something new I agreed to go but made sure I was under no
obligation to dance. For those of you
who don’t know, two stepping is a type of dance to (from what I can gather)
predominately country songs, in which a male and female dance together like in
salsa or ballroom dancing (except in two stepping apparently its very faux par
to dance with a same sex partner). The actual dancing part itself is a little
confusing at first, but being only two basic steps (hence the name!) to begin
with its relatively easy to pick up. Or so I was told…
The place itself was pretty non-descript from the outside –
just a corrugated iron barn type place, but inside it was rather large with a
cool bar and huge dance floor. Decked out with numerous people in cowboy boots
and hats to add to the atmosphere. Pretty damn cool to be honest! The music was
predominately county and blues, no bad thing as I’ve come to enjoy it having
been in North Carolina for so long, and it was an interesting experience to see
line dancing up close and how it should be done for once. The place was also
very different in atmosphere to other places I’ve been on nights out, with much
more politeness and charm going around, probably due to the fact that partners
are needed for dancing to a lot of the songs and so men would charm the ladies
rather than just come up behind and grind them. That did take me a little by
surprise! After a few beers Lindsay managed to persuade me to dance with her
(by that I mean took my hand and didn’t let go till the song was over) and I was
incredibly embarrassed as I thought everyone would spot that guy who had no
idea what he was doing and laugh. As it was, despite fumbling over my feet,
looking down the whole time and looking thoroughly British about the whole
things it wasn’t too bad. Until Lindsay decided she wanted to do a twirl. Which
with me looked more like a drunkard trying to gracefully fall over after being
shot. Yet somehow she still managed to pull it off… It didn’t really matter
anyway, because the laughter I was dreading never came: no gave a shit (or at
least to what I could see) about people abilities. Thank god!
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At Cadillac Ranch |
I ended up really enjoying myself at Cadillac Ranch (though I
wouldn’t say it at the time as the fear of dancing too much was still rather
strong!) and did end up dancing a few times with Lindsay (though she would go
off and join in the line dances herself – I wasn’t quite ready for that one
yet!) and listening to the music being played. Some of it actually recognisable
from the UK funnily enough! Eventually the night had to come to an end, with a
earlyish start in the morning to get back to Chapel Hill for revision to be
done for finals the next week (ugh…).
I had a thoroughly enjoyable night in Fayetteville,
experiencing some more of the South and things that I wouldn’t have normally
done (never would have gone to a line dancing place in the UK that’s for
sure!), and also see another part of Southern culture which I really do like
doing. Big thanks to the Phelps family for putting me up for the night, and to
Lindsay for putting up with me, my silly questions and poor dancing!